• Surface wavepackets subject to an abrupt depth change. Part 1. Second-order theory 

      Li, Yan; Zheng, Yaokun; Lin, Zhiliang; Adcock, Thomas A.A.; van den Bremer, Ton S. (Peer reviewed; Journal article, 2021)
      This paper develops second-order theory for narrow-banded surface gravity wavepackets experiencing a sudden depth transition based on a Stokes and multiple-scales expansion. As a wavepacket travels over a sudden depth ...
    • Surface wavepackets subject to an abrupt depth change. Part 2. Experimental analysis 

      Li, Yan; Draycott, Samuel; Adcock, Thomas A.A.; van den Bremer, Ton S. (Peer reviewed; Journal article, 2021)
      Surface gravity wavepackets in intermediate water depth experiencing an abrupt depth decrease are investigated experimentally. The experiments provide validation for the second-order (in steepness) theory for narrow-banded ...
    • Why rogue waves occur atop abrupt depth transitions 

      Li, Yan; Draycott, Samuel; Zheng, Yaokun; Lin, Zhiliang; Adcock, Thomas A. A.; van den Bremer, Ton S. (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2021)
      Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have recently been identified as potential causes of ‘rogue’ ocean waves. When stationary and (close-to-) normally distributed waves travel into shallower water over an ADT, distinct spatially ...